TERRE BLANCHE: An Idyllic Retreat in Provence
- Brian McCallen
- Jun 10, 2016
- 3 min read
With its towering mountains, two coastlines, famous vineyards, City of Lights, and a Gallic populace that has perfected the art of living, France has everything a visitor could want in a European vacation. Despite the excellence and preponderance (700-plus) of its courses, France has always flown under the radar as a golf destination. But with the 2018 Ryder Cup matches slated to be waged on the outskirts of Paris, France is now in the conversation as the best Continental option for avid golfers.
The region that resonates most with U.S. travelers is the south of France, notably Provence, a sun-drenched land set back from the Mediterranean Sea. Beyond the olive trees and almond groves, ancient villages rise from a fragrant scrubland of wild lavender, thyme and rosemary. The appeal of Provence is summed up by its easygoing folk, flavorsome cuisine, delicate wines, indelible smells and exquisite landscapes painted by Cezanne (Aix-en-Provence) and Van Gogh (Arles), among others. The light in Provence is dazzling.
In a secluded domain near the village of Fayence 20 miles from Cannes and the Cote d’Azur’s fabled playgrounds is Terre Blanche Hotel Spa Golf Resort, originally flagged as a Four Seasons and now an independent 5-star property affiliated with Leading Hotels of the World. Opened in 2004, the low-rise complex looks from its wooded perch to limestone- specked hills, huddled medieval villages and distant peaks in the Alpes-Maritimes.
The late Welshman Dave Thomas, a world-class player (and four-time Ryder Cupper) with over 100 designs to his credit, was hired to build two courses at Terre Blanche. Both layouts blend beautifully into the existing landscape. Le Chateau, championship-caliber at 7,235 yards, is a straightforward parkland test bellied into a valley, its pitfalls and perils–rock-lined creeks, man-made lakes, grass-faced bunkers–in plain view. The most distinctive hole is the par-5 sixth, both for its crook-shaped fairway indented by water and for the austere 19th-century chateau that sits high above the green. (Reputedly built by Napoleon for one of his generals, it once belonged to Sean Connery).
The second course, Le Riou, occupies the domain’s upper valley, its shorter, narrower holes carved from oak- and pine-clad hills. What it lacks in length, the 6,567-yard layout more than repays with steep drops, sharply-angled doglegs and liberally-contoured greens. Le Chateau is sober and stern; Le Riou is sportier and more scenic. Both courses are extremely well-groomed. At their center is an elegant clubhouse, its terrace restaurant overlooking Le Riou’s water-guarded 18th hole. Luxurious locker rooms and a boutique-style golf shop are complemented by a David Leadbetter Academy and the Albatross Golf Performance Center, a peerless place for improvement affiliated with the European Tour.
"Le Riou occupies the domain’s upper valley, its shorter, narrower holes carved from oak- and pine-clad hills."
Golf is played year-round in Fayence, but late spring and early summer, when the sun beams and the air is redolent with herbes de Provence, is the best time to go.
The resort’s 111 guest rooms and suites, housed in one- and two-story hillside villas, are connected by meandering walkways landscaped with bougainvillea and other flowering shrubs. The ochre-colored, barrel-roofed villas are plain on the outside, but interiors offer a sleek, sophisticated interpretation of Provence, with natural wood and stone finishes accented by rattan chairs, looseweave rugs, terra-cotta headboards and vibrant artwork. French doors open onto a private terrace. Fragonard, the famed French perfumery in nearby Grasse, has created in-room amenities for Terre Blanche inspired by the region’s scents. This tranquil retreat also offers a deluxe two-story spa, an infinity pool angled to rolling hills and a Kids’ Club that welcomes children ages 2 to 12 years.
Terre Blanche’s four restaurants are led by Le Faventia (one Michelin star), which serves seasonally-inspired Mediterranean dishes turned out by Philippe Jourdin, who earned his stripes at Tour d’Argent in Paris and once worked alongside legendary chef Roger Verge at Le Moulin de Mougins. The influence shows. The cuisine is as refined and seductive as Provence itself.
