LAKE TAHOE: Mile-High Playground in the Sierra Nevada
- Brian McCallen
- Jun 9, 2016
- 8 min read
Formed eons ago when a valley between two faults sank and was dammed by lava, Lake Tahoe, a mile-high masterpiece of nature that sits astride the California-Nevada border, has morphed into a major golf destination since the millennium. Twenty-two miles long and 12 miles wide, this shimmering blue lake is surrounded by tall rugged peaks in the Sierra Nevada. More than 40 courses ring its shore or climb into mountain foothills. A big bonus for visiting players: several of these courses are found at former private golf communities now positioned as semi-private clubs.
Located 190 miles east of San Francisco, Tahoe’s air gateway is Reno, a lively Vegas-style casino town. One option is to drive an hour south of Reno and circumnavigate the lake in a counter-clockwise direction, transiting from Nevada to California. A laid-back, Old West ambience prevails on both sides of the lake. Climbing to 6,200 feet above sea level, many of Tahoe’s courses occupy a high desert environment, their fairways framed by chaparral, tumbleweed and wildflowers. Others are parkland-style layouts carved from towering pines. The region’s thinner air will yield as much as 10 percent more distance per club, depending on launch angle. Peak golf season in Tahoe is June through early October.
The range of off-course activities and adventures is extensive, from soaring and sailing to hiking and biking. The 72-mile-long road that rings the lake leads to public beaches, state parks, national forests and wilderness areas. With its superb array of courses, hotels, restaurants and casinos, Lake Tahoe reigns as one of the most complete holiday destinations in the American West. As Mark Twain said of this High Sierra jewel, “the water is clearer than the air and the air is the air that angels breathe.”
GOLF: SOUTH SHORE – NEVADA
Edgewood Tahoe, Stateline A straightforward test built by George Fazio in 1968 and revised over the years by his nephew Tom, this blockbuster of a course has conifer-lined fairways that call for accurate drives. Annual host of the American Century Celebrity Golf Championship, Edgewood Tahoe’s slick, multi-tiered greens are guarded by cavernous bunkers. Water in play at 14 holes will keep you alert. It’s all you could want from the tips at 7,529 yards. To make way for a new Lodge (due open in June 2017), recent design changes at Nos. 7, 8 and 9 have improved the routing and enhanced the views. The finish – a postcard par 3 that plays across a corner of the lake’s sandy shore and a prodigious par 5 wedged between a rock-rimmed pond and Lake Tahoe – is exceptional. Enjoy a lingering sunset at Brooks’ Bar & Deck, a gathering spot overlooking the 18th green that ranks among the best 19th Holes in the game. www.edgewoodtahoe.com
Genoa Lakes (Lakes Course), Genoa This lay-of-the-land course designed by John Harbottle III and Peter Jacobsen, stretched across a valley floor near an old Pony Express Trail, is an annual U.S. Open Qualifying site. Fairways are cosseted by lush wetlands and huge cottonwoods fed by the Carson River and its winding tributaries. With water in play at 14 holes, the game here is placement, not power. Watch for bald eagles and hawks, both of which hunt and nest here. Lunch at The Grille at Genoa Lakes, its tables set near a picture window angled to the Sierra Nevada. Second round? Play the club’s Ranch Course, a solid layout known for its sharp elevation changes and panoramic views of the Carson Valley. www.genoalakes.com
Incline Village (Championship Course), Incline Village Cut through Ponderosa pines on mountain slopes 500 feet above Lake Tahoe, this classic Robert Trent Jones design, opened in 1964 at the height of his powers, has all his trademarks – runway-style tees, cloverleaf bunkers and pedestal greens defended by sand or water. A rushing stream comes into play at a dozen holes. Not up to the challenge posed by what Trent Jones described in “Golf’s Magnificent Challenge” as “an example of the ideal mountain course?” Tee it up at Incline Village’s Mountain Course, a 3,513-yard, par-58 layout by Robert Trent Jones II that offers a scaled-down version of the big test. www.gotahoenorth.com
Extra-Special Clear Creek Tahoe, Carson City While you need to be the guest of a member to gain access, pull any strings you can to play the Bill Coore/Ben Crenshaw design at this private mountain community opened in 2009. Carved into a raised saddle of land on Tahoe’s eastern shore, this firm, fast layout, featuring stellar views of studded rock formations and distant peaks, is flanked by towering pines, furry-edged bunkers and natural rock gardens. Broad fairways lead to swift, undulating greens. Surrounded by six million acres of the largest national forest in the lower 48, Clear Creek is nirvana for purists. Nostalgia buffs, too: the opening men-on-horseback scenes of Bonanza, the TV western, were filmed behind the 13th hole.
GOLF: NORTH SHORE –
Truckee, California Old Greenwood A scintillating Jack Nicklaus design parted through stately Jeffrey pines near Northstar Tahoe, a famed ski area, Old Greenwood presents a scenic, spectacular test. There’s plenty of room off the tee, though fairway bunkers are well placed and the sprawling greens are well-defended. The boomerang-shaped par-5 sixth hole, bent around a lake, presents a classic risk-reward scenario, while the uphill par-4 18th, 451 yards at full stretch, calls for two career shots plus a delicate putting touch. There’s also a 15-acre practice facility and a top-rated golf academy on site. Northern and Southern California Golf Association members (NCGA/SCGA) receive preferred rates at Old Greenwood and its sister facility, Gray’s Crossing. www.golfintahoe.com
Gray’s Crossing Designed by Peter Jacobsen and Jim Hardy, Gray’s Crossing presents a gently rolling test tunneled through tall pines in the shadow of Mt. Rose. The challenge here is directly opposite what golfers face at Old Greenwood. More precision is required off the tee due to the tighter landing areas, but the open-entry greens at Gray’s Crossing are more accessible. In many cases, bail-out areas have friendly slopes that funnel the ball to the pin. This is a fun course from the forward tees. From the black tees at 7,466 yards, it’s a test for the best. www.golfintahoe.com
Links at Squaw Creek Tree-huggers who relish the challenge of a narrow, target-style course can tackle this Robert Trent Jones II design spliced with wetlands and enclosed by six peaks. Located at the base of Squaw Valley at 6,200 feet, this 6,931-yard, par-71 layout favors precision over power. The wooded front nine’s slender fairways skirt the base of a mountain; the back nine tiptoes across a valley floor dotted with marshes and wetlands.
Schaffer’s Mill Originally conceived as a private golf community, this semi-private John Harbottle III–Johnny Miller design is a tale of two nines. The outward nine meanders through firs, spruce and Ponderosa pines at the base of a ridge. The inward nine, with elevation changes of up to 400 feet, has numerous water features and magnificent views of Martis Valley, Lookout Mountain and the Carson Range. Fitness-minded players can elect to walk the front nine and ride the back nine. Schaffer’s Mill offers reciprocal play to private club members. Unaccompanied guest play is permitted on Mondays.
Coyote Moon Hewn from rocks, pines and quaking aspen, this rugged tour de force skirts expansive wetlands and environmentally sensitive areas. Designed by former PGA Tour player Brad Bell in 2000, this epic, housing-free wilderness track has a character all its own. It’s a little tricky (or unconventional) in places, but that’s part of Coyote Moon’s charm. The signature hole is the par-3 13th, which plunges 130 feet from a chute in the woods to a large, angled green fronted by a creek and staked out by granite outcrops. www.coyotemoongolf.com
Sightseeing Genoa (Gen-OH-ah), a quaint Victorian town and Nevada’s oldest settlement (1851), is a throwback to the stagecoach era. On Main Street, don’t miss the Genoa Bar and Saloon, a legendary watering hole favored by Presidents Ulysses S. Grant and Teddy Roosevelt, countless movie stars and local cattle barons. Plink a few coins in the juke box to hear country-western classics. Shoot a game of pool. Admire the historic knickknacks, including a black leopard print bra courtesy of Raquel Welch that hangs from deer antlers behind the bar.
Adventures Heavenly Mountain Ride the scenic 2.4-mile gondola from South Lake Tahoe up the face of Heavenly Mountain, one of the nation’s largest ski resorts. Linger at the wooden Observation Deck at 9,123 feet to savor panoramas of Desolation Wilderness and expansive shore-to-shore views of Lake Tahoe. Sip a latte at Café Blue. Hikers can travel further up the mountain to access an extensive trail system. www.skiheavenly.com
Soaring NV For the adventure of a lifetime, book a glider ride at Soaring NV in Minden. With a seasoned pilot at the controls, the glider, towed high above the mountain peaks that encircle Lake Tahoe, rides air thermals during its gentle descent. Jaw-dropping views.
Thunderbird Lodge Board the Thunderbird yacht, a restored wooden speedboat, for the trip from Zephyr Cove to Thunderbird Lodge, Tahoe’s “Castle in the Sky.” The imposing stone mansion, a National Historic Site, was built by an eccentric wealthy playboy who kept wild animals on his estate. www.thunderbirdtahoe.org
Woodwind II A catamaran excursion aboard Woodwind II, a 55-foot-long, twin-hulled sailboat moored in Zephyr Cove, offers a relaxing two-hour sail around the mountain-ringed lake. The vessel has a sun deck and full bar. Secure your valuables. The center of the lake is over 1,600 feet deep. Woodwind Sailing Cruises • 775.588.1881
Accommodations Lake Tahoe Resort Hotel, South Lake Tahoe, California This family-friendly, all-suite hotel, located near Harrah’s Lake Tahoe Casino and a short drive from Edgewood Tahoe, features well-appointed accommodations and a complimentary breakfast buffet. www.tahoeresorthotel.com
David Walley’s Hot Springs Resort & Spa, Genoa, Nevada Convenient to Genoa Lakes, this laid-back resort features one- and two-bedroom suites with full or partial kitchens, fireplaces and balconies. The resort’s mineral hot springs and pools are a big draw. www.davidwalleys-resort.com
Resort at Squaw Creek, Olympic Valley, California Terraced on 195 acres beneath the peaks of Squaw Valley, site of the 1960 Winter Olympics, this lovely resort offers accommodations with large picture windows that offer sweeping views of the mountains, pine forests and valley. Excellent spa. www.squawcreek.com
Ritz-Carlton Lake Tahoe, Truckee, California Nestled among pines in the ski village of Northstar, this 5-star mountainside hotel is 15 minutes from Old Greenwood and Gray’s Crossing. Deluxe guest rooms and suites have gas fireplaces and floor-to-ceiling windows. The slope-side spa has water- and woods-themed treatments. www.ritzcarlton.com/LakeTahoe
Restaurants: South Shore Red Hut Café Breakfast is the specialty of the house at this family-owned regional chain. (The original waffle shop in South Lake Tahoe dates to 1959). The Strawberry Waffle is famous, but the pancakes, French toast and omelets are just as good. www.redhutcafe.com
1862 Restaurant Braised bison short rib and wild game specials are the featured entrees at this candlelit, ranch-style dining room attached to David Walley’s. For more casual fare, the burgers and ribs served in the adjoining 1862 Saloon are superb. Good wine list.
Ciera Steak + Chophouse Navigate the maze of slot machines at MontBleu, a casino hotel in Stateline, to find the quiet sanctuary of Ciera, a AAA Four Diamond restaurant. The 24-ounce Porterhouse steak for two is exceptional, as are the sides (blistered asparagus, creamed spinach, etc.). www.montbleuresort.com
Jimmy’s at the Landing This culinary outpost in Stateline is a must for adventurous diners. Small and sharing plates of wood-fired Greek dishes and regional California cuisine feature lots of feta, tabouli and tahini. Have the sommelier suggest one of the Peloponnesian wines. www.thelandingtahoe.com/dining
Restaurants: North Shore Pianeta Ristorante This below-the-sidewalk, brick-and-stone Cucina Italiana in downtown historic Truckee specializes in hearty northern Italian cuisine. The pasta dishes, notably the Ravioli Bolognese, are outstanding. Save room for the Tiramisu. Grappa and Limoncello available. www.pianetarestauranttruckee.com
Manzanita Attached to the Ritz-Carlton Lake Tahoe, this rustic yet elegant mountain eatery offers eclectic dishes prepared with regional ingredients. The smoked Mount Lassen trout salad is sublime. The chef’s tasting counter offers “interactive tapas.” The heated terrace offers al fresco dining.
Six Peaks Grille Start with one of the signature martinis at the Grille, the Resort at Squaw Creek’s signature restaurant. Chefs use local organic produce and Sonoma County lamb and chicken. Enjoy the glass-walled dining room; or take a seat on the patio high above Squaw Valley.
